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North Queensland
We then headed north to Mission Beach. I hadn’t seen a cassowary bird
but by the time we got there I was sick to death of the bastards. There
must be at least forty bird warning signs on the road in. Not that we
saw any actual birds. We were hoping to stay at a little place called
Bingil Bay but it was full. So we ended up in the second worst camping
spot in Mission Beach. We were right under the rainforest canopy and
the dew was unreal.
Mission Beach itself was great. Coconut palms overhanging the beach.
We even ate a couple as they had this coconut peeling machine on the
beach to use. We watched the full moon come up over the ocean (how
romantic). Really enjoyed Mission Beach apart from packing up a wet
camper.
We then headed up through Innisfaill then hung a left onto the
Palmerston Hwy. Good to get off the busy Bruce Hwy. The Palmerston Hwy
is a slice of motorcyle heaven and finally the still new looking outer
edges of my bikes tyres were getting a good scrubbing. Finally I was
getting my money’s worth out of the tyres. We called in to say g’day to
Trish, a mate of Dave Ward’s, who worked at the Mungali Dairy. So of
course we had to sample the scones, jam and cream. Trish was a nice
lady and like us one of the rare breed who know Dave and liked him
anyway.
Awesome
The country we rode through was spectacular green hills and winding
roads on through Millaa Millaa, Milanda, Kiari and on to our plush new
digs in the Lake Timmaroo Resort courtesy of Kate’s mates Kerry and Ron
at Point Samson. It was nice to spread out and watch a bit of telly as
a novelty.
The next day we did the awesome loop through Yungaburra, stopped at
Lake Barrine (one of the crater lakes) where we saw thousand year old
twin Kauri pines and sampled their famous since 1928 Devonshire Tea, it
was then a frantic blast down the spectacular Gilles Range road.
Yeehaa. Scrub those sidewalls, punish those tyres (well, as best you
can on a criuser. Damn I missed my Z900). Down through Gordonvale and
back on to the Bruce Hwy (sucks arse) and into Cairns. There we booked
into Gilligan’s because we’ll be in later on. Then it was up the
Kuranda Road. What a blast. We stopped at the Coffee Works at Mareeba
for a cuppa. Not bad. Then back to our little villa on the lake.
The next day was the waterfall run down through Millaa Millaa Falls,
spectacular, Mungali Falls, throw in some great twisty roads and you
get a hoot of a day. I took a wrong turn on one of the small back roads
then had to drop the hammer to catch Kate at Ravenshoe. We called down
to Innot Hot Springs for a theraputic soak then headed for home. On the
way we called in to the Millaa Millaa lookout that has an incredible
view of the tablelands. Between Millaa Millaa and Milanda is a tiny
settlement called Tarzali and I’d noticed a little bike shop that
looked like it specialised in vintage bikes and we called in for a
look. The owner, Gary, restored old British bikes and we got chatting.
I needed to repair a broken windscreen strut on Kate’s bike that I’d
bodgied in Ingham. He said no worries. His wife owned the same model
bike as Kate and he had a workshop manual. He said it was OK me working
on Kate’s bike the next day so we left it there so I could check her
valve clearances with a cold engine. Top Bloke.
Next day Gary and I yacked as we worked, me on Kate’s W650 him on a
very nice ‘53 Triumph Tiger. Kate’s valve clearances were okay none too
tight but number 2 exhaust was a little loose but useable. Replaced her
broken strut with a stainless steel one, inspected her sprockets okay
as well. Got a call from Kate while I was working saying she was
watching a platypus in a waterhole nearby. She’s one up on me there.
Put in new spark plugs and the whole thing cost me ten bucks, bargain.
Said seeya to Gary and told him to call in if he was ever over our way.
We did do a bit of relaxing but come the day before we were supposed
to leave I had the pannier off my bike inspecting the diff when I
noticed one of the brackets the tow bar connected to had broken a weld
(Kwaka bracket not the Classic bracket). Not happy.
Wrong Shed
The next day I ended up going to the wrong shed up the road to get it
welded but met the right bloke, Doug the shed builder, who wouldn’t
take even a few bob for a couple of beers after he welded that bracket
and strengthened the one from the other side. Another top bloke.
Re-assembled the back end and headed out today for Cooktown. We’ve
stopped in Mareeba because we’re going hot air ballooning tomorrow
morning early.
We were up at 4.00am to meet the blokes from Raging Thunder Hotair
Balloons at the Mareeba Info centre. Brass monkey weather and pitch
black. The head honcho commented that in the 15 years they’d been
operating they had never seen frost like we had that morning. Is
anybody else out there thinking that maybe Kate and I are to blame
because this freaky weather is starting to seem more than coincidental
with our presence.
Anyway, the balloon lifted off before sunrise and we couldn’t even feel
it lift as we just floated up and headed for the trees at the edge of
the paddock. Dave the pilot had the gondola just skimming the treetops
and out across a river. They do it around Mareeba because they can fly
90 out of a 100 days the conditions are some of the best in the world.
The sunrise over the mountains and tablelands was something special. We
flew south east and were picked up in a paddock by the crew. They then
put on brekky for us and off we went to pack up the camper.
Flying High
I’d also managed to book a flight in a Warbird at the local aircraft
museum at the airstrip 4km south of Mareeba. I ended up opting for the
aerobatic flight and it wasn’t cheap at $340 but you’re a long time
dead and it’s something I’ve always wanted to do. Boy am I ticking a
lot of things of my ‘To Do In This Lifetime’ list. The plane I was
going up in was an Australian built fighter trainer called a Winjeel.
It was a two seater, side by side with dual controls, powered by a
radial piston engine. At the museum they were rebuilding a Kittyhawk
fighter as a two seater. They were using a brand new remanufactured
fuselage and wing assembly. A beautiful looking aircraft.
I strapped in and the pilot, a young bloke called Michael Grieg who
flew for QUANTAS and flew competition aerobatics, gave me a big grin
and told me how much he loved doing these flights especially the
aerobatics. Ohhhh shiiiit! We used stuff all runway to get airborn and
then he pull it hard vertical then tipped over hard right as I yelled
Hoooleee Sheeeyite and he said, ‘That’s just to get your heart
going.’ Yep, that worked well.
From there we gained altitude and asked me if I wanted to fly it. Is a
frog’s arse watertight? I’d always wanted to do this and it was a buzz.
He called out headings on the land marks and I used the stick to get us
there. I even got to throw it on its side so we could check out the dam
wall at Lake Tinaroo. Wicked. After he got me to fly along the
mountains, across the lake, back towards Atherton then up over the
local prison he took the controls again and that was the end of the
sedate part of the flight. I stuck a puke bag in my harness
in case I didn’t hold my bacon and eggs down. He told he’d had to pull
peoples T-shirts over their heads to stop them puking all over the
cockpit because they couldn’t get to their sick bags, nice. He then let
the traffic controller know we were going into the aerobatics. He told
me if I came up for the airshow on the 19th of August this is what I’d
see.
He dropped the nose and we headed straight down then pulled into a loop
just to warm it up. From there we were barrel rolling looping harder
and harder, sometimes it felt the plane was completely out of control.
I was starting to sweat but brekky was still on the inside. At the max
of the loops we were pulling four and a half Gs.
Half a Ton
That meant I weighed nearly half a Ton. I can only describe it like
your face feels like it wants to slide off the front of your skull,
brilliant. Then it was over and I asked him, ‘What, aren’t you going to
let me land it.’ That cracked him up. I must admit I was pretty green
when I climbed out of the cockpit, but I was as high as a kite on
adrenalin. The guys inside were a bit surprised he’d taken me to four
and a half Gs. Everyone should experience that at least once.
From there it was back to pick up Kate and the camper and we headed up
to Cooktown. We’d been told it was a boring drive up there. Bullshit.
It was bloody beautiful. Mountains and bush and a newly finished two
lane bitumen road. Top stuff. Had to watch out for the local cattle as
they seemed to like hanging out on the roadside and wandering
unexpectedly across. The local rule is if their heads are down and
they’re eating you’re reasonably safe. Cooktown was great and the old
buildings and history was nice to take in. We camped at the Orchid Park
right in town so we were walking distance to everything. We even stood
on the spot where Capt. Cook beached the Endeavour to make repairs
after he ran aground on the Barrier Reef in 1770.
Friday night was live music in the pub across the road, ‘The Top Pub’,
where we had a top night night dancing to the local black fella band.
Speaking of which Kate and I were adopted by the local black fellas and
we danced into the night. Kate charged up on her whiskey me on the
tequila. I was very ashamed in the morning when I looked in the esky
and saw the empty tequila bottle that had been full yesterday arvo and
I definitely didn’t deserve to feel as good as I did. We packed up and
headed south again through the cattle that lined the roadside. We
stopped at the bottom of a particularly windy moutain track so I could
blast up and down on Kate’s bike with the suspension cranked up. What a
hoot.
We cruised down to Port Douglas where we spent a couple of relaxing
days. I even had a crack at windsurfing again. I was a bit rusty and
sconned myself a beauty with the boom but it all came together after
that.
We rode up to Cape Tribulation across the Daintree River on a ferry
which cost $16 return for both bikes. There was a fair bit of traffic
on the road but we got around it fairly smartly on the bikes. Cape
Tribulation was like an ant’s nest with all the sightseers and
backpackers. We had lunch on the beach and planted a few coconuts. Some
of the rainforest walks were good fun too.
Later I had to go into Atherton to get a new tyre for the the Nomad.
The head mechanic used to work at Hartley’s in Vic Park. Another top
bloke who gave me the run of the workshop and lift bench so I could
remove the wheel. It’s a bit of a job. I ended up doing an engine/diff
oil and filter change while I was at it. 3000km comes around too
quickly.
The weather was a bit crap but we still went exploring and we got to
see platypuses in the rain. Then we headed to Cairns. I got some dental
work done while we were there to fix a filling that had fallen out.
Just my luck it happened to be a big bastard. We had the best breakfast
of the whole trip across from our accommodation, at this hippy
vegetarian cafe that I was a bit dubious about but Kate insisted on.
Good call, Kate. It was eggs benedict with bacon and eggs on muffins
covered with hollondaise sauce and fried baby potatos with challottes.
Spanish Castle
We left Cairns and headed south through Innisfail then along the old
Bruce Hwy to a place called Mena Creek. We had come to see this Spanish
castle that was built back in 1929 by a Spanish bloke called Jose’
Paronella. He’d worked his ring off on cane farms then bought run
down farms and sold them when he’d brought them back up to spec. With
that money he bought 13 acres off land next to a waterfall to build his
castle. After 8 years without a letter home he went back to get his
promised bride to find she was already married thinking he was dead.
No worries says Jose’, and grabbed the younger sister, Margareta. He
brought her back and proceeded to build the castle of his dreams since
his Grandma used to tell him stories about them when he was an ankle
biter. He built it out of the local clay, concrete and cane train rail
line for re-enforcing bar. He even used to pinch the weatherboard off
deserted farm houses for his concrete form work. In 1933 he put in a
hydro-electric power plant harnessing the waterfall for power. The rest
of the area didn’t get power until the 1950’s. He used to run picture
theatres in his ballroom. He had a disco mirror ball 40 years before
disco. The gardens are incredible. The bloke was amazing. Have a look
on the internet if he sounds interesting.
We stayed there a couple of days and copped more bloody rain. Is this
drought for real or is someone messing with us? I thought drought would
be dustier than this. Then we headed down to Mission Beach again.
Dunk Island
This time we got a spot in the council park where it’s first in first
served. We are right on the beach for $12 a night, as opposed to $27
across the road, so we’ve ended up staying a few nights. We watched an
incredible full moon rise up over a clear Pacific horizon. We’ve had
some beaut weather here and enjoyed a lot of beach walking. We did a
trip to Dunk Island and had the most expensive coffee of our trip.
$4.20. We’ve decided to stay a few more days before our push south.
We’d decided to leave on the Monday morning, so we were up early and
packed up the camper trailer. We’d put our riding gear on and I was
hooking up the trailer as Kate with a puzzled look on her face asked if
I’d seen her helmet. I was thinking, ‘Bloody hell, Kate, how do you
missplace something like a helmet.’ and was about to give her a serve
as I reached for my helmet. OH BULLSHIT! Some lowlife had stolen our
helmets and our gloves from our bikes during the night. That meant we
weren’t going anywhere in a hurry.
We called the cops who were as good as they could be. A few of the long
termers in the park checked a few suspicions to no avail. Robin, the
park manager was good about and didn’t charge us for staying as we
couldn’t go anywhere without our lids. Kate was particularly pissed of
because she’d had her gloves since 1995 and they were flash. On the way
back from the cop shop we did get to see a big male cassowary which I
was starting to think had become extinct and they hadn’t got round to
taking down the warning signs yet.
We ended up having to buy new helmets and had them sent to Mission
Beach but we had to go to Tully to pick up Kate’s after borrowing some
helmets from a nice couple in the park. Couldn’t get gloves though.
Nugget, one of the locals found one of my gloves that suggested someone
had dropped it heading out of the park.
We headed out and down through Townsville through all the roadworks,
trucks and cane train crossings. The rainforest was making way for more
Eucalypts down past Bowen.
